Iqaluit is Canada’s northernmost city, and is the capital of Nunavut. The city, originally named Frobisher Bay, sits at the head of Frobisher Bay. Iqaluit, which means ” place of many fish” is a traditional fishing area for the Inuit. The United States build the Frobisher Bay Air Base in 1942, and its airstrip is now part of the Iqaluit Airport. The based closed in 1963.
Iqaluit is a bit south of the Arctic Circle, but we still experienced 24-hour light during our stay there in late spring of 2013.
Igloo church. St Jude’s Anglican Cathedral was built in 1970. Its exterior emulates the lines of a traditional Inuit igloo. At the time of our visit, Iqaluit’s population was around 7000, over half of whom were Inuit.
Rocks and snow. Iqaluit sprawls over rocky ridges along one side of Frobisher Bay. The streets follow the contours of the land, and each building has a unique number. Rock dust is a feature of the land here, and one is expected to remove one’s footwear in many buildings. The yellow airport terminal (which has since been replaced by a red one) and its runway are just visible in the middle distance of this photo.
Build it and things will come. After World War II, the Hudson’s Bay Company moved its south Baffin trading post from Ward Inlet to the community of Apex in order to take advantage of the nearby airfield. While Iqaluit was operating as a U.S. Air Base, non-military residents resided in the neighbouring community of Apex, just over the hill from Iqaluit.
One-stop shopping. The Northmart is one of a few major retailers in Iqaluit. Alongside frozen food and fresh produce, residents can buy bicycles, furniture, ATVs, and appliances. Most food items arrive by plane, and are priced accordingly. This store has reopened after a major fire in its warehouse section in 2018.
Plan ahead. A cluster of newer houses overlooks frozen Frobisher Bay. This photo was taken on June 4, when the bay was still socked-in with ice. Building materials, vehicles, and other large items arrive by cargo ship during the brief sealift season in late August.
Functional design. The architectural styles in Iqaluit vary widely. The Nakasuk School’s stark exterior stands out in contrast with its welcoming interior. The Frobisher Inn on the hill in the right rear of this photo exhibits a more traditional southern design.
Travel note: Iqaluit is surprising easy to get to, with regular flights from Ottawa and Montreal, as well as from other northern communities. Our flight from Ottawa took only three hours. There are no roads to Iqaluit. The 148-hectare Sylvia Grinnell Territorial Park is on the west edge of town and offers hiking trails, camping, and fishing (with a license.) In winter visitors can book dog-sled or snowmobile tours, and view the Northern Lights. Accommodation should be booked well in advance.