Ghent is in the Flemish (primarily Dutch-speaking) region of Belgium, and is that country’s third-largest city. Human settlement in the area goes back to at least the Stone Age, and a permanent settlement was established by the 7th century. By the Late Middle Ages, Ghent was prospering due to the wool trade and was the richest city in Northern Europe.
Much of the medieval centre of Ghent has been preserved, and most streets in the city’s centre are pedestrian only. We spent a full week exploring Ghent in early August, 2019.
Grass Quay. The Graslei, along the Leie River, is one of the medieval quays in the port area of Ghent. The modern port area is now north of the city, and the Graslei district is a culture and tourist hub. The name, Graslei (Grass Quay in English), harkens back to its importance in the wheat trade in Flanders. The equally well-preserved Corn Quay (Korenlei) is directly across the river.
Tower Row. From Sint-Michielsbrug (Saint Michael’s Bridge), one photo can capture a line of towers. In the middle distance is Sint-Niklaaskerk (St Nicholas Church); to the right and behind is the Belfort (the Belfry). The third medieval tower of Sint-Baafs (St Bavo’s) Cathedral is just out of sight. (The towered building at left is a former post office.)
St Bavo’s. The Roman-Catholic cathedral of St Bavo’s is named for Ghent’s patron saint (known as Sint Baaf in Dutch.) Construction of the church began in 1274 with the church replacing a 10th-century wood chapel. The cathedral houses many notable works of art, including the Ghent Altarpiece (formally known as the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb) by Hubert and Jan van Eyck. That polyptych (multi-panelled) painting was unveiled in 1432, and is considered a masterpiece of European art. The Ghent Altarpiece, in whole or in part, has been stolen seven times. One panel remains missing after a 1934 theft.
The Gravensteen. This 12th-century castle was the residence of the Count of Flanders (“Gravensteen” means “the Count’s rock”.) In 1949 this was the site of the locally-infamous “The Battle of Gravensteen Castle”, when students from the University of Ghent occupied the castle to protest a large increase to the price of beer. The castle has been restored and is open to the public.
De Krook. Two rivers, the Scheldt and Leie, plus several canals, criss-cross Ghent. The waterways are often busy with pleasure craft. Hovering over a bend in the river Scheldt is the newly-built library, media centre, and research hub, “De Krook”. The library provides moorings for patrons arriving by water, as well as ample parking space for bicycles.
Ride & Park & Ride. Seen through the windows of the Gent-Sint-Pieters train station, rows and rows of bicycles wait in the commuter parking lot. The morning and afternoon rush hours in Ghent are dominated by commuters riding their bicycles to work, or to the train station (where many commuters catch trains to Brussels.) Tourists can rent bikes at the train station, or in the city’s centre.
Travel note: Brussels Airport, around 60 kilometres southeast of Ghent, is the nearest international airport. There is a direct 1-hour rail link from Brussels Airport to Ghent’s Gent-Sint-Pieters railway station. There is rail access to many other European cities from Ghent, including Bruges, Antwerp, and Luxembourg. Ghent has extensive public transportation, and tourists can purchase day passes providing unlimited use of busses and trams.